We arrived in KMD just in time for the Teej festival which lasts 3 days. Groups of women feast first in a big "girls night out" then fast all day. Then they queue to worship Shiva at Pashputinath on the Eastern outskirts of KMD just outside the ring road quite close to the airport. It is Nepal's holiest Hindu pilgrimage site & is where the dead are burnt in the open on the banks of the Bagmati river. As we approached hundreds of people were walking towards the site along the road. There were vehicles everywhere, but we did manage to park. The site was completely packed, mostly with women, who were all dressed in their best red sari's. Despite the very grey & drizzly day it was one of the most colourful sights I have ever seen. Once they were in the site they queued happily to go to the shrine / temple area to give offerings & pray. Women were dancing in marquees erected along the paths, the music was very jolly & added to the wonderful atmosphere.
Another lovely day, another festival. We set off for Bhaktapur – the “city of devotees.” This is South East of KMD, beyond the airport, 45 minutes away. There was a street
festival, with yet more singing & dancing from all corners
of Nepal.
Bhaktapur is probably what KMD
looked like before the arrival of the “modern world”. Built of
lovely warm red brick it rises out of the fertile fields of the
valley as an elongated maze of streets, narrow alleys & squares.
The beautiful buildings are traditional Newari pavilion houses, with
exquisitely carved wooden doors & windows, and the streets are
herringbone paved. Men sit in sattal – covered platform areas,
women wash at public taps, people visit the shrines with offerings,
lots of stalls & shops sell everything you can think of. It is a
step back in time to a much better place. Traditional carved
wrestlers guard the temples & shrines. The hereditary title for a
prince, Malla, means wrestler. The entrance fee to the city pays for
the restoration that has taken place & the city is preserved
because it is largely pedestrianised.
It was a delight, even more so
with the vibrant festival taking place. Gatherings of women in
beautiful & colourful sari's were chatting in the shade under
sattals making wreaths & offerings for the temples. The
combination of bells, gongs & cymbals made a really moving
wonderful sound. Nepali's are very pragmatic & Buddhism &
Hindu seems to be almost interchangeable. Beggars run mortars round
brass “singing bowls” to attract your attention – as do street
vendors.
We watched boys dressed as
Hanuman the monkey god dancing in one of the squares. They were just
like Morris dancers, but very rhythmic. People were really friendly,
most were locals, there weren't many tourists at all, and they gave
us front row seats. Disconcertingly the Nepali's don't do clapping.
By 11.30. we were quite hot &
tired so we went up to the balcony of a restaurant which overlooked
the Dattatreya square & watched the bands marching up & down
the streets & had a drink. The bands were really entertaining, not only
different tunes, but simultaneous bands coming in and out of the
square & performing in the arena. There was also a dance
involving 3 monkeys who I think were bad spirits. Some sort of
protest march with banners & placards came through, but it was
all very good humoured.
The most fascinating festival we saw was the final day of the Indra Jaatra, which gives thanks for the monsoon rains. The Kumari Jaatra starts on the 3rdday. The Kumari, a living goddess, is always a pre-pubescent girl chosen from a Buddhist clan of goldsmiths, which is odd as she is supposed to be a re-incarnation of a Hindu goddess, Taleju. She is chosen between the ages of 3 & 5 & has to exhibit 32 auspicious signs. Her feet are never allowed to touch the ground & the goddess spirit leaves her if she bleeds. So she becomes an ordinary mortal at puberty. The present one was installed in 2008. Adjusting to “normal” life must be difficult for ex Kumari's & their families. She lives in the Kumari Chowk a “gilded cage” & isn't allowed out of her house at all, apart from a few occasions like the Indra Jaatra festival.
When we were walking towards Durbar Square to see her we met a procession with some men carrying what we thought was the Kumari. However it wasn't. It was another little girl with similar make up who will also be in the procession.
When we arrived there was
already a big crowd & an air of great excitement. People were
standing on every available space to get a good view. I managed to get on a
platform just to one side of a lion guarding the main door of the
Kumari Chowk. An American news crew were filming and doing a piece to
camera, so we were filmed too. While we were waiting there was
constant entertainment from the masked dancers & musicians
playing cymbals & drums entertaining the crowd. Especially Lakhe
with a red face & shaggy hair, a demon who keeps spirits at bay.
The crowd itself & all the soldiers, riot police & policemen
were entertaining too.
First the two girls
representing Ganesh & Bhairab came out & were put onto
chariots behind that of the Kumari. Then came the Kumari herself,
carried & fussed over by lots of minders, both men & women.
Once she was esconced on the leading chariot the men started the
difficult task of pulling the chariot round the square. This must be
a herculean task, the chariots are huge & made from very solid
wood with massive metal rimmed wheels. Men on the chariot threw
marigolds to the crowd. You are supposed to catch them with your right
hand to be blessed. I got one but dropped it, so it probably won't
work! A really amazing experience – I wouldn't have missed it for
the world.
The Nepali's certainly know how to enjoy themselves & their enjoyment is infectious. They seem a happy people despite the many problems which beset them & their country. Nepal does have a long way to go in terms of development, but I found myself wondering again whether we are any happier in the West for all our supposed sophistication & lifestyle. I somehow doubt it.
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